Day 2 – Indoor pictures when it rains in Prague

For all the best organized plans to see wonderful things in a foreign city, rain sometimes gets in the way. Today saw a mild to moderate drizzle the whole day on top of fairly chilly temperatures, not cold enough for snow, but not much warmer.

So today turned out to be a day of checking out restaurants, making reservations, riding public transportation, and staying dry inside of the magnificent St. Vitus Cathedral in the center of the Prague Castle.

Prague's St. Vitus Cathedral

Prague’s public transportation is fast and efficient, and best of all on a day like today, dry. Subways are come every few minutes and connect with most parts of the city. When you combine taking trams around, you can get within a few blocks of almost anywhere you need to go in the central part of the city.

Subway stations are also great to photograph. When you walk to the end of a platform, you can make the lines disappear into the blackness of the tunnel.

It’s also fun to experiment with a long exposure to show the train in motion. Be sure to get to the end of the platform where the train will arrive moving quickly and show down your shutter speed. This shot used a quarter second exposure and a rear-curtain flash – you can see the driver as if he is not moving.

Hopefully tomorrow the weather will allow for some outdoor photography. But if it doesn’t, I guess I’ll just have to get wet.

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Day 1 – Arrival in Prague

Welcome to the daily chronicles of my current trip. I am writing from Prague where I am doing some last-minute preparations before meeting my University of North Carolina at Greensboro students in Vienna for our annual Spring Break Music Trip. I’ll be in Prague and Vienna for five days before the group arrives, then we will spend eight days together. It’s a great way to spend spring break.

Illegal parking in Prague is not a good idea

Prague is a wonderful city, and it is so relatively quiet to visit in the off season. My first day consisted of buying transit passes for the students, checking out some restaurants, taking a walk up to the castle (“up” is the important word here, I’ll take the tram next time!), and trying to stay awake when my body wants sleep.

One sight I saw was the Prague Police using a winch to remove a can that was illegally parked. I wonder how many ticket that person had acquired. This is a nice car, too! And I saw the same thing happen several hours later. If you park in Prague, be careful.

Prague is great to wander at night. Here’s a photo I took of the Powder Tower next to the Obecni Dum, around the corner from my hotel.

The Powder Tower is around the corner from our hotel.

Day 2 is about to start. I will be checking out the Dvorak Museum, finding the famous Globe Bookstore and U Flecku Bar (one does not live on music alone), and taking in the sights of St, Vitus Cathedral.

Getting a good night of first night of sleep felt great, too.

 

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Tchaikovsky’s “Variations of Rococo Theme”

When is Tchaikovsky not Tchaikovsky?

Pyotr Tchaikovsky Portrait

Tchaikovsky

Pyotr Tchaikovsky is certainly one of the best known composers we hear these days. His “1812 Overture”, “Swan Lake”, late symphonies, and, of course, “The Nutcracker” are staples of the orchestral repertoire. But one of his wonderful works, the “Variations on a Rococo Theme” for cello and orchestra, is not entirely by the great Russian composer. This makes for an interesting and somewhat bizarre story.

Wilhelm Fitzhagen was a cellist who played in the premieres of Tchaikovsky’s string quartets and knew the composer’s music well. When he wanted to add to the repertoire of the cello, he decided to ask Tchaikovsky to write a work for cello and orchestra.

An Homage to Mozart

Tchaikovsky accepted the request and decided to write a work that paid homage to his favorite composer, Mozart. The work was to have a classical sensibility and use one of Mozart’s characteristic devices, a theme and variations. Tchaikovsky wrote a theme in Rococo style, and used this as the basis of his new piece.

Wilhelm Fitzhagen Portrait

Wilhelm Fitzhagen

The composer worked on the variations between December 1876 and March 1877. When the music was completed, Tchaikovsky was quite pleased with his effort, and felt that he had indeed captured the lightness and classical style of his beloved Mozart. But the music Tchaikovsky had finished is not what we hear today!

What happened next is a bit strange. Tchaikovsky gave the music to Fitzhagen for the cellist to learn the piece. In situations like this, it is typical for the first soloist of a concerto to make some minor edits which make the work more playable. This happens when a composer does not know the instrument well and writes some things that are awkward to perform. This has happened dozens of times in the history of music.

Taking the Scalpel to the Music

Fitzhagen, however, was not content with making a handful of minor edits. He felt that he could make the piece much better than what Tchaikovsky had written. So instead of “tweaking” the music, the cellist decided to perform the equivalent of transplant surgery on it by reordering the variations, splitting an original variation into pieces and inserting them in different portions of the piece, and even omitting the music Tchaikovsky had originally intended to be right before the ending!

Unfortunately, Tchaikovsky knew nothing about any of this because he was abroad recovering from a short but painful marriage. And when he was away, Fitzhagen took the “revised” version of the variations and presented the work to a publisher named Jurgenson, claiming that Tchaikovsky had asked him to make the alterations. Jurgenson must have felt something was amiss, and wrote to the composer stating “Horrible Fitzenhagen insists on changing your cello piece. He wants to ‘cello’ it up”.

“Wrong” Music Published

After this, one would expect that the publisher would not have paid too much attention to the cellist’s version. But, incredibly, Jurgenson went ahead and published the variations with all the modifications that Fitzhagen had made.

A classic recording of Tchaikovsky's Rococo Theme

A classic recording of the piece

Tchaikovsky was livid with the situation, but did not take the publisher or Fitzhagen to task. Still, his irritation about what happened to his music remained for quite a while. Eleven years later, one of his students approached the composer and asked if Tchaikovsky would ever want to restore the piece to what he had originally written. The composer’s response was blunt: “Oh, the hell with it! Let it stay the way it is”.

What are we to make of the music today? One must actually give some (more than some?) credit to Fitzhagen, because the “Variations on a Rococo Theme” is a beautiful piece of music, and one that has charmed audiences for decades. It is one of the staples of the repertoire for cello and orchestra. Apparently Fitzhagen knew what he was doing in the first place.

But don’t tell Tchaikovsky that I said that.

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Maria von Trapp meets the Godfather

If the nuns in Nonntal Abbey in Salzburg has chosen this approach to Maria, “The Sound of Music” would have been very different!

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Beethoven’s Seventh Symphony

During the summer of 1811 Beethoven’s health was suffering, and under his doctor’s orders he traveled to the Bohemian spa town of Teplice. There he began his Seventh Symphony, completed in the spring of 1812. Evidently the recuperative period produced an extraordinary creative spark in Beethoven, as he said that this symphony was one of his finest works. Debuted in 1813 as part of a charity concert for soldiers injured in the Battle of Hanau against Napoleon’s troops, it had a tremendous reception, with three more performances within ten weeks. Richard Wagner famously called the symphony “the Apotheosis of the Dance itself,” referring to its great variety of dance-like rhythms. Rhythmic energy indeed drives the symphony; the long introduction moves through ascending scales to the Vivace, which has an undeniably triumphal quality. The haunting Allegretto fixates on an unrelenting theme with a surprisingly simple rhythmic profile, and moves from faint beginnings into a grand climax. The Scherzo and Trio take a boisterous romp, with occasional periods of calm, and Donald Tovey has described the Allegro con brio as containing “Bacchic fury.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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Beethoven’s Fifth Symphony

The Fifth Symphony did not begin public life auspiciously. It was composed in fits and starts from 1804-1808 as Beethoven’s deafness grew, against the looming threat of the Napoleonic Wars and Napoleon’s 1805 occupation of Vienna. The premiere in 1808 made relatively little impression, as the orchestra did not perform well, having had only one rehearsal. But soon, critics and audiences found themselves enraptured with the symphony. The opening four-note theme of the first movement is one of the most recognized moments in Western music, and according to legend Beethoven characterized the theme as “Fate knocking at the door.” The theme pervades and unifies the first movement, and returns in later movements; hence the symphony’s status as the iconic example of the ideal of musical “organicism.” The Fifth has also long been understood as a metaphorical heroic journey “from darkness to light,” and has been identified with Beethoven’s own struggles to overcome personal adversity.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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Beethoven’s Overture to Egmont

Political allegory finds potent artistic manifestation in Beethoven’s Overture to Egmont. When Beethoven composed the overture and incidental music to Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s play Egmont between 1809 and 1810, Europe was engulfed in the Napoleonic Wars (1800-1814), during which Napoleon dramatically extended the reach of the French empire. Goethe’s historical play Egmont (1788) describes the Count of Egmont, a sixteenth-century Flemish nobleman who was executed for fighting against Spanish domination in the Netherlands. The celebration of the heroic efforts of the Count of Egmont to resist foreign oppression undoubtedly resonated for Beethoven, whose city of residence, Vienna, was twice occupied by Napoleon (in 1805 and 1809). The Overture to Egmont proves remarkably powerful, opening with an unmistakable gravitas, followed by a succession of themes that seem to illustrate Count Egmont’s life and struggles. By this point in his career Beethoven had succeeded in uniting vigorous, dynamic musical expression with masterful technical fluency, and the Overture to Egmont stands as a testament to this achievement.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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Beethoven’s Third Symphony

Some years before he composed his Symphony No. 3 (“Eroica”), Beethoven is said to have declared to a friend, “From this day forth I shall forge a new path.” Composed in 1803-1804, the “Eroica” manifests one of the striking examples of Beethoven’s bold “new path,” with its enormously increased dimensions compared to his first two symphonies, astounding technical facility, and consistent originality. Beethoven had composed the symphony to honor his revolutionary hero Napoleon, intending to call the work Bonaparte. But after hearing that Napoleon had crowned himself emperor, Beethoven scratched out the honorary title, calling it instead Heroic Symphony, composed to celebrate the Memory of a Great Man. These circumstances have led to speculation about the identity of the “hero,” and some have suggested that the symphony is autobiographical. Particularly notable in the first movement is the seemingly premature entrance of the horn with the main theme before the beginning of the recapitulation, and the March funebre, depicting the funeral procession of the fallen hero, which represents the first use of the march in a symphony.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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Beethoven’s Fourth Symphony

The most infrequently performed of his nine symphonies, Beethoven’s Symphony No. 4 has suffered comparative neglect. Positioned between the tremendously celebrated Symphonies Nos. 3 and 5, the work was depicted by Robert Schumann as “a slender Greek maiden between two Norse giants.” Indeed, the work exhibits more stylistic similarities with Beethoven’s first two symphonies, which found inspiration in Haydn’s late symphonies. Beethoven composed the Fourth in 1806 and dedicated it to Count Franz von Oppersdorff, a Silesian nobleman related to Beethoven’s patron Prince Lichnowsky. The symphony opens with a slow introduction, whose stealthy, foreboding dissonances intensify anticipation of the lively and lyrical Allegro, marked by a notable “zigzag” principal theme. Of the Adagio, Berlioz said: “…only amongst the giants of poetic art can we find anything to compare with this sublime page of the giant of music.” The third movement playfully subverts our expectations of rhythm and meter, and the finale is a breathlessly energetic culmination alluding to melodies heard earlier in the symphony.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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Beethoven’s Overture to Prometheus

At the invitation of Italian choreographer and librettist Salvatore Viganò, Beethoven composed music for Viganò’s ballet Die Geschöpfe des Prometheus (The Creatures of Prometheus), premiered for Empress Maria Theresa at the Vienna Court Theater in 1801. Beethoven’s first work for the Viennese theater achieved instant public acclaim, yet the Overture is the only section of the ballet remaining in the active repertory. It portrays the myth of Prometheus, who was said to have produced two clay statues that became the human race, and who, against Zeus’s orders, stole fire to bequeath to humanity. Beethoven’s Overture begins dramatically with timpani strikes and dissonant chords, which lead into a noble Adagio appropriate to the “heroic-allegorical” subject. The subsequent Allegro section, characterized by a rapid, distinctive main theme in the strings, has been said to illustrate Prometheus’s flight from Olympus after stealing fire from the Chariot of the Sun. Along with the Egmont and Coriolan Overtures, the Prometheus Overture remains among Beethoven’s most enduring works for the stage.

This was written by Molly Barnes, a doctoral student and teaching assistant in the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill Department of Music. She wrote it for the program of the Orchestre Révolutionnaire et Romantique conducted by John Eliot Gardiner in November 2011.

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